LED Ring Lights – Cheap, Excellent Lighting for a Mill or Drill Press

I recently discovered automotive 12 volt DC LED ring lights, and not only are they really inexpensive, they solve the lighting issues these old eyes were having when using one of the milling machines or the drill press.

He may not have been the first to come up with this, but I first saw these lights used on ChrisB257’s YouTube channel, so a big thanks goes out to him for sharing the idea.

About $12 bought 4 of them on Ebay, shipped from China in about 10 days, and they do a great job when mounted to a machine’s  spindle. I attached the first one to the Grizzly G0759 (G0704) mill temporarily with 4 neodymium magnets to test it. Wow! Definitely worth adding to the other machines, too, although I’ll stick them on with double-sided 3M foam tape to make sure they don’t slide around.

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An old cell phone style power “brick” currently supplies 12 volts to this 80mm OD ring of 24 LEDS, through a small rocker switch mounted to the side of the mill’s control box. With lighting coming from all around the spindle there are very few shadows, and I couldn’t be happier with this setup.

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Turns out, the 80 mm size fits perfectly on my old Sears drill press spindle, too. Will be ordering smaller ones to fit the tiny Derbyshire mill. They make these rings in quite a few different diameters.

As an aside, to run multiple sets of these in your shop, just scrounge an old PC power supply and run lamp cord or speaker wire from it to each machine. That’s what I  was planning to do before I found this 12V power brick in my bin-full of them (“Yes dear, I save those, because they really come in handy”). The LED’s don’t draw much current and the little brick would probably run all 3 of them, but there’s so much wattage available using the PC supply, you don’t have to worry about that. And I have a feeling these handy little lights will be “multiplying” around the shop, anyway.

It’s actually pretty easy to “load” a PC supply to switch it on. I use an old GE #53 incandescent bulb to load this one and it works great. To learn how to re-purpose a PC supply, just search for articles on the subject; you’ll find lots of them. Here’s one that was useful (although it was way more complex than I needed):
http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Computer-ATX-Power-Supply-to-a-Lab-Power-Supply

Hope that’s helpful.

God bless you and yours,

Dave Harnish
www.DavesRepair.com
drs[at]sosbbs.com

No Jesus, No Peace.
Know Jesus, Know Peace.

John 3:3

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Running HDMI Signals Longer Distances

Yikes. I’m soon gonna have to change the name of this little project to Things I’ve Learned This *Month*, or maybe even This *Quarter*! Just keeping up (mostly) with email overload is taking most of my time lately. ‘Guess everyone else is feeling like us: this winter was just too long and brutal, and it’s time for hibernation to be *over*!

Anyway, one of the things I was relieved to learn last week is that yes, it’s possible to run HDMI video 100 feet, to 3 displays at once.

For a while now, our church has been wanting to upgrade our single-screen video projection system to two HD TV’s on the walls, and we finally got that project done last week.

Our pro sound/tech guy moved out of the area a few years ago, and for some reason, this kind of tech stuff defaults to me, an ancient appliance repair geezer. Anyway, after doing a LOT of research on how far HDMI can be run without signal loss issues, answers varied wildly depending on who I asked. The most experienced pro I talked to about it *thought* it should work OK, but his final word on it was “best to just hook it up and see. Sometimes a system like that works, sometimes it doesn’t”. [sigh]

OK, so that wasn’t as encouraging as it could’ve been, but we proceeded anyway. ‘Bought the best quality cables I could find from BlueRigger.com via Amazon, and a little J-Tech 4-way powered HDMI splitter/amplifier, also via Amazon.

The primary cable has an inline amp halfway through its 75 length, and that, along with the testimonials of others who’ve used it, sold me on it. All 3 BlueRigger cables were a breeze to run, and are good quality cabling. Snaking 75 ft of thick cabling above a suspended ceiling could’ve been a lot tougher (having good help was a plus, too).

Bottom line: You can indeed run HDMI from a source (a laptop in this case) 75 feet to a powered 4-way splitter, then out 3 legs, 25 feet each, to 2 HD TV’s and a floor monitor (DVI input), with all 3 pictures looking gorgeous. Being able to breathe again when I saw them working was very nice, I must say. 😉

So again, I learned some things. Likely stuff I’ll never need to deal with again, but who knows? Maybe it’ll be of help to you. That’s the purpose of this little writing project, after all.

So, just in case you’re ever called upon to run HDMI, I hope this helps you breathe a little easier, too.

God bless you and yours,
Dave Harnish

www.DavesRepair.com
John 3:3

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A Word About Rust Removal Liquids

Back in September, we talked briefly about how well electrolysis works for rust removal.

Since then I’ve learned about yet another liquid said to be very effective, so I thought I’d try it. This one’s called “Evap0-Rust”, and although it worked better for me than WD-40’s “Rust Remover Soak”, sadly it’s not by much. I recently ran small overnight test soaks using both products here in the shop, and the results were pretty dismal, especially when cost is considered.

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Overall I’ve been disappointed with liquid rust removers, especially after seeing how well electrolysis works. It’s a truly amazing process; simple, inexpensive, and very fast. I’ll be staying with that method.

‘Thought I’d update you on this, just in case you were about to spend good money on one of these liquids. For about the cost of a jug of one of these chemicals, you can pickup a cheap battery charger, dedicated plastic tub, and enough washing soda to de-rust a lot of steel!

Just my $.02 worth. Hope it’s of some help.

God bless you and yours,
Dave
www.DavesRepair.com

“All things new…” Rev 21:5

 

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How to Stop Those Annoying Auto-play Videos on Websites

Howdy, and Happy Holidays to you – a little late! Our CHRISTmas and New Year were a blur with all the kids home and a quick trip to the Green Bay game on the 28th – one of our long-term bucket list items! Has been an amazing couple of weeks, but we’re ready to slow it down a notch now.

Anyway, I don’t know about you, but one of my pet peeves online is visiting a website to read an article and hearing audio after a few seconds. Sure enough, somewhere on the site, there’s a video playing – that I did NOT ask for. Ugh!

I just learned how to stop that, at least in Chrome, the browser I use most. Turns out, it’s a change to a simple Flash setting.

In Chrome, you click the menu icon on the upper-right corner and select Settings. Then scroll down to the bottom of the page and click the Show advanced settings link.

Scroll down further until you find the Privacy section. Click the Content settings button.

In the resulting Content Settings dialog box, scroll down to the Plug-ins section. Select Click to play, then click the Done button in the lower-right corner.

From then on, a Flash window will appear as a gray box with a jigsaw piece icon in the center. If you want to watch the video, click in that box. It’ll look like this:

0101 blocked chrome

Wish I’d researched how to do this long ago! It’s one of those little annoyances that’s just nice to turn off.

That’s it for now! God bless you and yours in the year 2015 AD!

(PS – If you’ve never been to Green Bay – GO! It’s an amazing experience!)

Dave Harnish
www.DavesRepair.com

“All things new…” Rev 21:5

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Quick Tip: The Best Mousetrap Bait Ever!

Happy Thanksgiving, all! Hope you’re kicking back and taking some time off. Most of our kids are home for a visit today, and we are so abundantly blessed, all I can say is “Thank you, Lord”.

We just got about 9″ of beautiful, wet snow here on the hill, sticking to every twig. This is the season when mice love coming in and taking up residence in our 125 year-old cellar, and a snowstorm motivates them to do that in numbers that just don’t work for us.After checking the “trap line” in our cellar a little while ago, it dawned on me that some of you might not know the best bait for a mouse trap.

I’ve tried pretty much everything over the years, but hands-down the best bait to use is, surprisingly, Tootsie Rolls. Yep, good old T rolls. Our mice go after ’em like cocaine, and the sneaky little buggers can’t lick it off a trap like peanut butter!

Just chew a T roll up a bit or work it in your hand until soft, then work a gob onto the trap.

We should be saving all the pelts; could probably make a nice soft sweater, or something. 😉

God bless you,

Dave Harnish
www.DavesRepair.com

1 Thess 5:18

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Storing Wooden Sawhorses

We have a nice old pair of wooden, non-folding sawhorses, made for me by my master carpenter Father-in-law several decades ago, and I finally came up with a good way to store them out of the way when not needed.

I use them often so they need to be within reach while not taking up any valuable garage floor space, so they now hang upside-down from the ceiling rafters, back to back. Not sure why I never thought of this before!

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Our garage has a 9 foot ceiling, so I can walk under them without having my “bells rung”, but can easily reach up and quickly pull down one or both of them.

Not thrilled about drilling holes through the 2 x 4 truss rafter, I bent up a pair of simple hanger hooks from some 1/4″ mild steel rod salvaged from an old futon we scrapped a while back. The hooks just hang over the top of the rafter, prevented from sliding around by a couple of small round-crown staples on top. The hook ends fit through 1/2″ holes drilled in the center of two legs of each horse. 

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I’m pleasantly surprised by how well this has worked out. I’ve been walking around these horses for a long time, and with the limited space [cough] on my side of the garage, this is a big improvement.

Hope that’s helpful.

God bless you,

Dave
www.DavesRepair.com

Amos 4:13

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A Terrific Rust Removal Method – Electrolysis!

We’ve been cleaning out the barn and hauling old wringer washer “skeletons” and the other accumulated tons of miscellaneous scrap metal to our local junkyard this week. On our first trip there, I noticed this old, rust-caked hammer head lying on the ground where we backed in.

‘Been wanting to try a new (to me) rust removal method I’d heard about recently, and this was the perfect small piece to experiment with, so it rode home with us.

I didn’t hold out much hope for the process, because over the years I’ve tried most of the chemical methods for removing rust, but after seeing how well this works, I’m kicking myself for not taking a “before” photo of this hammer for you, so you could see the difference.

This little hammer head was a mess, caked with heavy, flakey rust, looking like it’d been lying there in the dirt for years (and probably was). After 2 hours in a simple electrolysis bath and about 2 minutes with a wire brush, the difference is dramatic, to say the least! I’m sold on this “rust resurrection” method!

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I recommend watching the YouTube videos on the subject for the details (search for “electrolysis rust removal”), but basically a rusty part is hung by a piece of wire in water that has a bit (I used about a half cup – the amount’s not crucial) of “washing soda” (sodium carbonate) dissolved in it – warm water works fastest – and another piece of metal is held in the water on the other side of the container. I used a 2 gallon plastic bucket, but most any plastic container or pail can be used as long as the work can be totally immersed.

Connect a regular 12 volt car battery charger’s negative terminal to the work, the positive to the “sacrificial” piece of metal, making sure they’re not touching each other in the solution. Plug in the battery charger and wait a while, and – wow! What a difference! Note: be sure the negative is connected to the work you want to clean of rust. If you get the terminals reversed, you’ll make the part *more* rusty!

I didn’t have any washing soda on hand, but we did have an old box of “20 Mule Team Borax” laundry additive here, so I used that, with great results. I assume this chemical just makes the water more conductive, not sure about that.

Note: This process generates hydrogen gas, so it’s probably best if it’s done outside, or at least with lots of ventilation. I ran this little experiment outside on our roofed deck.

Anyway, watch the details on YouTube, then give it a try. Best method I’ve found yet! A special thanks to my friend “MrPete222” for introducing me to it via his YT channel. 

God bless you and yours,

Dave Harnish
www.DavesRepair.com

Acts 4:12

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Another Terrific Headache-Saving Little Computer Utility

Via a passing mention in PCWorld magazine, I just found a real time saving little computer utility that I already LOVE after using it for just two days.

I copy and paste all day long, usually into Thunderbird email, and text formatting from other sources loves to follow it into Tbird, which can be  a real pain.

Ever since changing over to Win 7 and Tbird a while back, I’ve been copying text first into notepad, then copying it out of Notepad again before finally pasting it into Tbird (or any other software). That removes the formatting and makes it look presentable in an email.

Turns out, the free little utility called “PureText” removes this formatting in one step, without the extra copy/paste. That may not sound like a big deal to some folks, but if you spend much time on PC’s, you’ll know it’s a HUGE time and aggravation saver! (I copied this article from my word processor directly into this blog post using PT and [Windows-V] with none of the usual reformatting necessary)

A guy named Steve Miller authored and freely offers this handy software, and other utilities, at SteveMiller.net/apps. 

Many thanks, Steve! PureText’s a real keeper! 

God bless you and yours,

Dave Harnish
www.DavesRepair.com

Amos 4:13

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Making an Impact With an Electric Wrench

I recently had to replace ball joints on my old pickup truck, and since that experience and a few others with our vehicles lately, this has become a tool I never want to be without.

I have 3 air compressors around this place, but none of them provides the CFM to run an air impact wrench for very long, so I started looking around for another solution this summer.

The DeWalt 1/2″ electric version – this one’s model DW292 – fits the bill, and has effortlessly loosened everything I’ve thrown at it. Love this tool! No waiting for a compressor to catch up, or wondering if there’s enough air supply, just plug it in and go!

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There’s a short learning curve to properly retighten lug nuts and I still double-check them with the old T-wrench, but this things fast, fast, fast. No more loosening lugs with the vehicle sitting on the garage floor, then jacking it up and wrenching them off. Just jack her up, and in a few seconds the lugs are off. Not quite as fast as a NASCAR pit crew, but… 

Wish I’d known these were serious tools years ago. I always thought the electrics were more of a toy than a tool. Sure glad I tried one.

I bought this one via Amazon Prime, along with a set of deep sockets, and as you can probably tell, have no regrets. One tip, though: The little socket retaining pin was stiff and too sharp, making it hard to attach/remove sockets when this one first arrived. A little touchup with a Dremel tool softened the pin’s edges and solved that.

If you work on your own vehicles and don’t have a huge air compressor (or maybe even if you do), buy one of these! It’ll save you a lot of time.

God bless you and yours,

Dave Harnish
www.DavesRepair.com

Amos 4:13

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How to Easily Remove Jar and Bottle Labels

‘Been using this little trick almost daily for a while now, and thought maybe you could get some use out of it, too. I was just reminded of this when my Lovely asked me to get a stubborn label off a nice glass bottle she wants to re-use. Mineral spirits cleanly took it off in a few minutes, and I finished up with a bit of WD-40 to take off the last of the adhesive residue and give it some sheen. 

I have a small (3-1/2 gallon) parts washer tank here in the shop,  and keep it about half filled with ordinary “Low Odor Mineral Spirits”, sold as paint thinner by our local True Value hardware store. Not only is the stuff very good for degreasing small parts like Mixmaster worm gears, spindles, etc, it does a great job loosening those irritating bottle and jar labels, too (Note: don’t try to run this stuff through a parts washer pump – it’ll kill it pretty quickly. My little tank went pump-less many years ago). 

Back when I was taking gazillions of daily meds, I accumulated a lot of pill bottles, which are really handy around the shop.  Just drop them into a container of this and let them soak for a few hours, or even overnight. You’ll often find the label lying in the bottom of the tank, completely removed from the jar or bottle. 

I’ve been surprised that this doesn’t attack the plastics I’ve tried it with so far. Even thin peanut butter jars, etc, aren’t affected by the solvent, but the adhesive used in their labels certainly is. You’ll want to experiment with small jobs with whatever brand you use, just to make sure your results are similar to mine, but the True Value branded version works great for me. 

I do recommend using rubber gloves – Nitrile ones work best – and paint thinner is somewhat flammable, so use with care. 

Hope that’s helpful! 

God bless you, and Happy Independence Day to my U. S. friends! 

Dave Harnish
www.DavesRepair.com

John 8:32, 36

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